This week more than most, we have been hearing a certain word uttered in fashion circles. Alongside “janties”, “Hedi Slimane” and “kilts”, a perhaps less expected – or, at least, less glitzy – word has been taking up airtime: durability. It comes off the back of Primark’s new Durability Framework, which the fast-fashion giant says is “designed to set the bar for how retailers can extend the life of their clothing – meaning our customers will ultimately be able to love and wear their clothes for longer”.

“Durability shouldn’t be a luxury,” the retailer continued. But while the importance of extending the life of clothes is in no doubt – figures from environmental NGO WRAP show that using an item for nine months can reduce carbon, waste, and water footprints by up to 30% – Primark’s business model is designed to sell masses of clothes at extremely low prices, arguably fuelling a “buy once, wear once” mentality. So it comes as little surprise that Patrick Duffy, founder of the Global Fashion Exchange, describes the announcement as “a textbook example of greenwashing” and “nothing more than a marketing tactic to polish their image”.

“It is disingenuous that Primark should enter these murky waters,” adds Orsola de Castro, co-founder of Fashion Revolution and creative director of the agency Estethica. “Of course their products are durable,” she says. “Any product that contains vast amounts of polyester is durable, as in, it will take hundreds of years to decompose in landfill.”

A genuinely durable fashion brand, according to Duffy, “would prioritise high-quality, long-lasting materials like organic cotton, wool, or recycled fibres, avoiding the cheap, synthetic fabrics that dominate fast fashion.”

Of course, Primark is not alone. “The reality is that … fast-fashion giants thrive on rapid production cycles, cheap labour and low-quality materials,” said Duffy. “The idea that their products can suddenly become long-lasting without overhauling their entire supply chain is deceptive.” Yet many fast-fashion brands have also spearheaded attempts to look more green. In 2022, Boohoo was criticised for appointing Kourtney Kardashian as a “sustainability ambassador”, while in 2023 a group of influencers took part in a Shein-sponsored trip where they toured the company’s “innovation centre” in China.

So, in pursuit of truly durable and more sustainably minded clothing, we asked the experts for tips on choosing clothes that will genuinely stand the test of time. Whether you’re on the hunt for a new pair of long-lasting jeans, mulling over a puffer jacket you hope will last for winters to come or rummaging in a charity shop for vintage finds made to buck the ageing process, read on.

‘Jeans with elastane will wear out quicker’

Jeans with elastane break down in the inner thigh and crotch areas and need repairing after about one year of wear. Standard denim might last more like two to three years before needing repair.

The most hard-wearing denim is Japanese selvedge. It does take time to wear in but it lasts the longest. Brands such as Edwin, Nudie, Naked & Famous, Iron Heart and Joe & Co Denim all make selvedge denim of high quality. – Michael Pendlebury, founder of The Denim Doctor

‘When it comes to jackets, a good-quality zip is your first priority – and shop in-person’

The number one reason we see jackets fail is the zip, so a good-quality one is your first priority. Check if it is branded – YKK or Opti are best. Avoid waterproof coil or two-way zips, as these don’t last as long and aim for size 5 or bigger on a main zip. The size should be marked on the back if it is branded.

Depending on why you are buying your jacket, you’ll need to look for different materials. Lightweight will never last as long, but if you need it to be ultralight, then that’s a trade off. Fabric is graded by weight and, usually, heavier equals stronger. Brand names such as Gore-Tex or Cordura are often a good sign and older-technology fabrics such as canvas, waxed cotton and leather are probably the most durable. Top-stitching – when a seam line is reinforced and is visible on the outer part of a garment – is a good sign. Avoid glued-in zips, pockets or hems, which often fail, especially after washing.

Shopping in-person is always more reliable. Don’t be afraid to put the item through its paces in the shop. Try a “pill test” by rubbing the fabric to see if it wears. Pull all the zips, poppers and seams – better to break it in the shop than on you! And if it does break, complain. We ensure quality by asking for it in the first place. – Rosanna Watson, founder Snowdonia Gear Repair

‘Shop vintage – and always look inside’

You will always find something more unique and interesting when you shop vintage – there’s an attention to extra little details because they were not mass-produced to the levels they are today. Always look inside – check the pocket bags, is the lining torn? But remember that even if something is damaged, a good tailor or local dry cleaners can usually repair, mend or even refashion. – Kim, co-founder of Vintage Sisters

‘Always check the hinges of glasses’

Choose acetate (plastic) frames over injection-moulded plastic – acetate frames usually have a metal support down the sides and they will feel heavier. Metal frames are durable, but are much more susceptible to scratching and are harder to repair. Plus, always check the hinges – plastic hinges are prone to snapping, whereas a metal hinge can break over time but can be repaired. – Jo Skelton, co-founder of Peep Eyewear

‘Welted boots are less likely to fail’

Keep an eye out for welted boots – boots where the join between the upper and the outsole is stitched all the way around the shoe. Stitching provides an additional reinforcement to the construction, so your shoe is less likely to fail. It can also make repairing them a lot easier.

Leather uppers are usually more durable than synthetics, which is a shame for vegans but, for now at least, it’s true. Leather uppers are typically a lot more repairable as well. Keep them in great condition by using shoe creams, balms and oils to hydrate the leather, keep the surface looking healthy and help prevent water damage. I alternate between shoe creams and oil and do my boots about once a month. – Jamie Whitehouse, The Boot Repair Company

‘Give yourself the option to have pieces taken in or out’

Consider sizing up so a seamstress can make alterations to allow the fit to feel comfortable [if your size fluctuates over time]. The high street especially, to further drive down manufacturing costs, will use the most minimal amount of fabric possible and often the dress size we feel we are won’t fit comfortably because the cut of that piece doesn’t allow any room for flexibility or movement. If you have some excess fabric at the seam and the run of stitches are straight and neat, you have options to have that piece taken in or out. – Donna Tweedale, personal stylist

‘Real vintage items have double hems’

If you are not sure if something is vintage or a reproduction, look at the stitching or the hem of the garment. Real vintage items were often finished with a double hem, whereas reproduction vintage is only hemmed once and sometimes just overlocked to finish. – Faye Wagstaffe, founder of Charity Shop Gal

Got your own style question? Send it to fashionstatement@theguardian.com.